Switzerland & Chartreuse Team Trip
HORS-CHAMPS
OUR SHORT BUT INTENSIVE 4‑DAY TRIP TO SWITZERLAND BEGAN IN THE EASTERN PART OF THE COUNTRY, IN THE CANTON OF GRAUBÜNDEN TO BE PRECISE, WHERE WE WERE ABLE TO IMMERSE OURSELVES IN A LUSH GREEN ALPINE LANDSCAPE. THE PERSISTENT RAIN COULD NOT DAMPEN OUR SPIRITS, ESPECIALLY AS THE WINEGROWERS THEMSELVES WERE VERY HAPPY ABOUT THE GOOD WATER SUPPLY FOR THEIR VINES AND THE VINEYARDS WERE BURSTING WITH VITALITY.
WEINGUT GANTENBEIN
Our first appointment took us to the Gantenbein winery, located in an almost surreally pretty little village called Fläsch, with a marvellous view of the nearby mountains.
The estate itself is located on the edge of the village, well protected from curious tourists looking for an entertaining wine tasting. Founded in 1982 by Martha and Daniel Gantenbein, the winery has enjoyed an international reputation for decades. Mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are cultivated on around 6 hectares, with a tiny proportion of Riesling. All three wines bear a clear signature and are harmonious masterpieces. What distinguishes them is the grape variety and
the method of ageing, but what they all have in common is a perfect balance between fruit, body and tannin or acidity. The fact that the wines have excellent ageing potential is exemplified by the youthful-looking Pinot Noir 2013, which we had the pleasure of tasting with the new winery manager Andreas Hütwohl. Andreas, very likeable and down-to-earth, is a trained winemaker from the Palatinate who will manage the winery together with his wife in the future. We can therefore hope not only for a continuation of the stringent quality philosophy, but also for a further refinement of it. We are excited!
WEINGUT DONATSCH
After lunch, we continued on to the legendary Donatsch winery in Malans, where host Martin Donatsch invited us to an extensive tasting of his extremely fine wines in the cellar vault.
An interesting detail: the Donatsch winery has been in existence since 1897, the same year in which the Wengler company was founded. Martin, a clever, energetic man in his thirties, lives his profession and during the visit you get the impression that he thinks carefully about what he does and what he prefers not to do. For example, during the tour of the spotlessly clean cellar, he explained why he doesn’t want to do without the old, perhaps outdated-looking Sutter tanks. Another young winemaker in his position might have ordered new stainless steel tanks, like those found in countless cellars around the world.
Afterwards, the tasting took place in an impressive vault, which is located directly next to the highly recommended restaurant ‘zum Ochsen’. In addition to the classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines, we were able to familiarise ourselves with the excellent, fine Crémants and the fascinating Completer variety. Completer has very good ageing potential and impresses with its full fruit body and balanced acidity. For lovers of Burgundy varieties, we highly recommend the Cuvees Passion and Unique.
OBRECHT
The Obrecht winery, which is run in fifth generation by the energetic couple Francisca and Christian Obrecht, is the last address we will visit in Graubünden.
As soon as you enter, you realise that a different vision of viticulture is being pursued here. In front of the courtyard gate, the Obrechts have installed a modern vending machine where you can pick up chilled wine from the estate 24/7, beautifully framed in a kind of mountain hut. The inner courtyard is generously laid out with individual themed islands that invite you to linger and enjoy. The floor is laid with natural stone, which lends the overall impression both quality and lasting charm.
The estate has been cultivating around 8 hectares according to biodynamic principles since 2013 (certified since 2017) and purchases an additional 5 hectares from organic cultivation. The programme ranges from easy-drinking, skilfully made Pet Nat from Pinot Noir to balanced Cuvees such as Troclanera and complex varietal wines such as the Pinot Noir Monolith. The fact that wine is thought and lived differently here becomes clear when you walk through the cellar. Many things seem different than in conventional cellars. More rounded, more angled, more spontaneous, peppered with witty details. Nevertheless, the Obrechts should by no means be seen as hippies who leave things to chance. Rather, they are experienced free spirits who know their craft inside out and realise it impressively in their own individual way. After an exciting tasting, we were bid farewell with home-baked bread, which not only tasted excellent – just like the wines – but can also be seen as a small seal of approval for the winery’s genuine craftsmanship.
DOMAINE JEAN-RENÉ GERMANIER
After an impressive first day, we travelled to the French-speaking Valais, where Jean-René Germanier and Gilles Besse welcomed us for an unforgettable raclette in a recultivated vineyard.
The Heida and Petite Arvine wines in particular, with their harmonious acidity, harmonised perfectly with the fat of the cheese and, thanks to their individual aromas, represent exciting alternatives to the internationally renowned grape varieties. We were deeply impressed by the spectacular landscape, in which the vineyards, laid out in terraces, adapt to the countless twists and turns and sometimes dizzying heights of the cliffs.
The highlight of the day was a blind served mini vertical of the iconic Cuvee Cayas made from 100% Syrah, an extremely storable wine, impressively represented by a still very lively 2005, which impressed us with its power as well as its elegance and finesse. But also the younger vintages – 2017 and 2013 – were ultra fine examples of this top notch Cuvee.
CHARTREUSE
The last stop on our exciting journey took us to the heart of the Chartreuse mountain range, where we were given a comprehensive insight into the premises of the internationally legendary liqueur producer of the same name.
How important it is for the longevity of a product to retain an aura of mystery is practised here in a way that is as proud as it is professional.
The history of this internationally highly successful brand of liqueur with its distinctive green colour, which after many ups and downs has regained its strength today, goes back to the appearance of the Carthusian monk Bruno, who, originating from the Cologne region, came to the area between Grenoble and Chambéry around the turn of the millennium and, with the support of his six companions, founded the Chartreuse monastery in the middle of the region, which is characterised by gorges and wooded cliffs. However, the recipe, which officially consists of 130 ingredients, was not written down until much later, around 1605. Only a few insiders know what the recipe is. What is obvious, however, is the enormous vitality and timeless relevance of this intensely green elixir, which has been delighting people around the world for centuries, despite several wars and crises, and is enjoyed on its own, in cocktails, as a digestif or in combination with desserts. It is also one of the few products that has managed to gain recognition both in pop culture (mentioned in Quentin Tarantino’s film Bullet Proof) and among countless sommeliers and bartenders around the world. It therefore fills us with enormous pride to be the exclusive partner of this impressive brand. Our recommendation? Definitely try it or visit this magical place once in your life.